Guide To Flange Effect And It's Parameters
Flange is commonly known as the ''jet plane effect'' to the masses, and it's sound has been a popular staple since the 60s. It can be used on any instrument imaginable, from vocals to guitar to drums.
Flange at it's core is simply a delay effect with the delay parameter set at a very small amount. With today's technology, producing this sound manually is easy as pie.
The customization features on modern flanging units is unparalleled. Dialing in a signature flange style has never been so easy, but it's important to understand the functions of each parameter and why it works the way it does.
The common delay setting to achieve flange with a delay unit are 20 milliseconds and under. Instead of hearing the actual signal being delayed, they will blend together to make a ''jet plane effect'' sound. The reason this happens is when two identical signals overlap each other, some frequencies are ''canceled out''.
Let's go over the parameters that are usually on flanging units.
Parameter One - Delay : This parameter changes the time it takes for the second signal to play after the original. Most times the highest setting will not be more than 20 milliseconds, as mentioned above. In some cases, the delay setting can be to to a negative value to create interesting ambient effects as well.
Parameter Two - Depth : This parameter functions as the control for the ''warble'' of the flange effect. That is, the severity of the changes in pitch.
Parameter Three - Width : This parameter is somewhat similar to Depth, but has a noticeable difference to the ear. It controls the speed at which the peaks and valleys of the flange are reached.
Parameter Four - Rate : This parameter controls the rate at which the warbles repeat themselves. The faster the speed, the faster your audio signal will go through the complete flange process.
Parameter Five - LFO : This parameter isn't on older flange units but is found on more recent software flanges. They enable you to alter the output of the wave in accordance to the flange. The four possible settings are sine, square, saw, and triangle.
Parameter Six - Feedback : Now we're talking. Feedback loops the output signal back into the input, creating a possibly infinite amount of noise. This results in many strange effects, especially in higher settings. If you're using headphones, be sure to keep the volume low before you experiment with this parameter.
This concludes the guide to flange. As always, experiment and use your ear!
Posted at 10:05AM Feb 23, 2010 Read More... by Rebecca in Flange |
Line Six Liqua Flange Pedal For Guitar
Flange is a weird effect. It is not always fitting for a lot of music. I think a lot of guitar players have trouble trying to determine where the effects best fits in with their sound. Instead of the direct punch and obviousness of other effects, flange is an overlay that tampers with the frequencies surrounding your signal.
On really loud, humming amplifiers, you can actually hear the flange effect from a lot of pedals. It will waver up and down and up and down through the buzz that the amp is making. It is a very powerful effect. It may take some getting used to. If you have a good enough device and a decent understanding of how it can be used, I think it can be one of the best pedals out there. A few bands have actually mastered the art of using it constantly.
These bands generally sound dreamy and ambient all the time. The flange pedal, without being overbearing, really creates the dimension that makes a lot of these bands sound memorable. If you have ever heard of Slowdive, My Bloody Valentine, or School of Seven Bells, you will hear (the slower songs especially) huge waves of flange over everything from guitar to bass to cymbals. You have to find the right device to have on board with you. Once you figure out the sound you are going for, you're golden.
The Line 6 Liqua Flange is one of the best units I have come across. It has controls for Speed, Depth, Feedback, Time and Mode Selector. The Mode actually lets you sift through 11 different wave formations to find which one suits you most perfectly. There is a Model switch that lets you choose either Digital, Liquid, or Analog.
With ease of use, affordability, and premium sound quality, it is a wonder to me that I do not see more of these on stages across America.
There is also another switch for polarity with negative and positive options. One cool thing about this Line 6 model that a lot of others do not include is tap temp. If you need the wavering of your flange to be in perfect time, fear not. You now have a classy, hands free way to keep it all in line.
Posted at 09:52AM Feb 22, 2010 Read More... by Rebecca in Flange |
Flange's Definition
A flange is an external or internal rib, or rim (lip), for strength, as the flange of an iron beam or I-beam (or a T-beam); or for a guide, as the flange of a train wheel; or for attachment to another object, as the flange on the end of a pipe, steam cylinder, etc, or on the lens mount of a camera. Thus a flanged rail is a rail with a flange on one side to keep wheels, etc., from running off. The term "flange" is also used for a kind of tool used to form flanges. By using flanges, pipes can be assembled or disassembled very easily.
Plumbing or Piping
Although flange generally refers to the actual raised rim or lip of a fitting, many flanged plumbing fittings are themselves known as 'flanges':
Surrey FlangeCommon flanges used in plumbing are the Surrey flange or Danzey flange, York flange, Sussex flange and Essex flange. Surrey and York flanges fit to the top of the hot water tank allowing all the water to be taken without disturbance to the tank. They are often used to ensure an even flow of water to showers. An Essex flange requires a hole to be drilled in the side of the tank.
There is also a Warix flange which is the same as a York flange but the shower output is on the top of the flange and the vent on the side. The York and Warix flange have female adapters so that they fit onto a male tank, whereas the Surrey flange connects to a female tank.
A closet flange provides the mount for a toilet.
Pipe flanges
There are many different flange standards to be found worldwide. To allow easy functionality and inter-changeability, these are designed to have standardised dimensions. Common world standards include ASA/ANSI (USA), PN/DIN (European), BS10 (British/Australian), and JIS/KS (Japanese/Korean).
ANSI designations such as ANSI 150, ANSI 300 and so on are often followed by a # (hash symbol). The ANSI number does not directly relate to a pressure rating, but to a class of flange. For example, the hash (#) or 'pound' reference; e.g. 300 pound, can be misleading in that an ANSI 300 flange is actually rated for a test pressure of 740 psi (~5100 kPa), and only within a certain working temperature range (-20 to 100 deg F.)
In most cases these are not interchangeable (e.g. an ANSI flange will not mate against a JIS flange). Further many of the flanges in each standard are divided into "pressure classes", allowing flanges to be capable of taking different pressure ratings. Again these are not generally interchangeable (e.g. an ANSI 150 will not mate with an ANSI 300). These "pressure classes" also have differing pressure and temperature ratings for different materials. "Pressure Classes" of piping are usually developed for a process plant or power generating station; these "pressure classes" may be unique to the specific corporation, Engineering Procurement and Construction (EPC) contractor, or the process plant owner.
The flange faces are made to standardized dimensions and are typically "flat face", "raised face", "tongue and groove", or "ring joint" styles, although other obscure styles are possible.
Flange designs are available as "welding neck", "slip-on", "boss", "lap joint", "socket weld", "threaded", and also "blind".
ASME standards (U.S.)
Pipe flanges that are made to standards called out by ASME B16.5 or ASME B16.47 are typically made from forged materials and have machined surfaces. B16.5 refers to nominal pipe sizes (NPS) from 1/2 to 24. B16.47 covers NPSs from 26 to 60. Each specification further delineates flanges into classes 150, 300, 400, 600, 900, 1500 and 2500 for B16.5. B16.47 delineates its flanges into classes 75, 150, 300, 400, 600, 900.
The gasket type and bolt type are generally specified by the standard(s); however, sometimes the standards refer to the ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code (B&PVC) for details (see ASME Code Section VIII Division 1 - Appendix 2). These flanges are recognized by ASME Pipe Codes such as ASME B31.1 Power Piping, and ASME B31.3 Process Piping.
Materials for flanges are usually under ASME designation: SA-105 (Specification for Carbon Steel Forgings for Piping Applications) , SA-266 (Specification for Carbon Steel Forgings for Pressure Vessel Components) or SA-182 (Specification for Forged or Rolled Alloy-Steel Pipe Flanges, Forged Fittings, and Valves and Parts for High-Temperature Service). In addition, there are many "industry standard" flanges that in some circumstance may be used on ASME work.
Other countries
Flanges in other countries also are manufactured according to the standards for materials, pressure ratings, etc. Such standards include DIN, and/or ISO standards.
Posted at 09:31AM Feb 21, 2010 Read More... by Rebecca in Flange |
How to Move Massive Structures Using Hydraulics
Moving massive structures, in the hundreds or thousands of tons range, special flange methods need to be employed. Specially designed and built hydraulic systems are capable of achieving some amazing results using three techniques, each suitable for different applications. Which to use, depends on a number of factors, but is best illustrated by examining some applications and how those problems were solved.
When offshore drilling rig jackets are built, theyre often built on their sides and then dragged onto a barge for transport out to sea where they are positioned, shoved off the barge to float, then gradually flooded as theyre tugged into position to settle on their pre-cast sub sea bases. Skidding a huge structure up to 25,000 tons to load it on a barge required the use of re-positionable hydraulic jacks. Most often the structure is just dragged along a row of wide flange steel I-beams.
The hydraulic jacks are positioned by either a latching mechanism engaging a hole in the beam of a gripper mechanism that uses hydraulic pressure to clamp on the beam flanges. One or more jacks can then exert their massive push forces on the structure to move it ahead some distance, usually on the order of 4 feet (1 meter.) Once the jacks are fully extended, the gripper disengages or the advancing load relaxed in the case of a latch, so that the jack can then retract and draw the gripper or latch ahead to re-position itself for another push. This inchworm sequence: clamp, push, unclamp, advance is repeated until the structure is moved the desired distance.
The same method, using wide flanged beams as skidding surface, is used to move drill towers about on offshore drilling rigs. In shipyards where ships are built in sections, this method can be used to marry sections together, accurately positioning them to be welded together.
An interesting variation on this technique is used on structures that require many movements, such as the Denver Mile High Stadium east stands. A 16 story tall, 5000 ton section was moved back and forth 165 feet to reposition the section to account for the different sizes and shapes of baseball and football fields. In this case the grippers and jacks were permanently attached to mounts in the ground,, while the wide flange jacking beams were attached to the moving structure. The entire structure was floated on water bearings to reduce the friction and allow it to be moved with minimal effort. This was so successful that a restriction on wind speed had to be imposed to prevent the structure from blowing away when floated on the film of water.
Another technique for moving massive loads has been applied in shipyards to move up to 12,000 ton ships about in the yard. A wheeled train with hydraulic jacks is rolled under the blocked up ship, and the ship lifted using the on-board jacks. A hydraulic gripper and jack system can them be used on the rails to inch-worm the ship along the rail tracks. Instead of gripping on a wide flanged beam, the hydraulic clamp actually grips on a standard train rail, so that off-the-shelf commercially produced rail and track can be employed.
When contemplating moving massive structures, it is prudent to think through the moving method before the civil engineering is done so that accommodations can be made to design the site to best accommodate the function. A number of innovative hydraulic solutions are possible, when faced with this daunting task.
Jeff Spira is a mechanical engineering consultant and runs Spira Engineering specializing not only in design and engineering, but also in tooling, design, process design and quality system consulting. He has been acted as project engineer for a number of hydraulic systems used to move massive structures.
Posted at 10:03AM Feb 09, 2010 Read More... by Rebecca in Flange |
Make Sure You Have A Good Flange
Standard flanges of large diameter is not necessarily mate. Andrew Sloley offers a look at Plant Insites column this month.
The system was adding a three-stage vacuum ejector for steam. We would like to discuss with us from time to time by representatives of local suppliers to ensure that the instruction schedule. Everything was expected, as stated in all devices of the system in the near future to supply export and transit to the factory to complete.
Shortly before the ship date, EPR has asked me to ask me for lunch and it was unusual for him. Apparently he wanted something, but I do not know what. My boss told me, less cynical and simply enjoy a good meal. The breakfast was wonderful and went well.
Then, the EPR has gradually come to see me with a statement about a small problem with the equipment of the vacuum system. The purpose of this meal was finally free in nature.
The steam system were three stages of capacitors after each step. Capacitor reduce the load for the next phase of the condensation of the steam engine, steam from the process and the process may be condensed. The first stage is designed with ejector directly related to the first capacitor. Three parallel lines are combined into a single seal drum (also called).
We wanted at least one complete set of soaring in the shop of the seller prior to shipment. This required manufacturers to take delivery of heat and do the installation. The soaring preferred suppliers for each component suppliers to deliver directly to our site. However, she said: Just humor us for at least one laboratory in the file. In the end, we have concluded an agreement to take a train track.
The problem occurred at the meeting. The 30-in. Flange output capacitor of the first phase of mate with 30-in. Intake flange of the condenser. Have been ordered Rush to take the respective flanges and repairs.
The incident took place well before the American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) was launched in 1980, official efforts to develop a single flange for pipe diameters 26 inches and above. Until then, two different models of the flange were common: the standardization of civil manufacturers (MSS) sector of the valve, and the American Petroleum Institute (API).
The MSS-44-Standard for Steel Pipe Line Flanges radically different from the API-605 standard for large diameter steel flanges carbon.
Figure 1 contrasts with the size and layout key for the category 150 of sealing films. Obviously inappropriate. The manufacturer of ejection had used a type of flange and heat had another supplier may be used.
ASME was looking for a single design of the nominal diameter of the tube, 26 inches. 48-in. Brides. Let MSS or API, or both, should be changed to create the model. Neither move would be. So far we have ASME / ANSI standard has two parts. ASME B16.47 Series A offers a the amount of MSS flanges and a series of B corresponding to the flanges API. For class 150 and class 300 (all sizes) and 36-inch and smaller classes, higher than Class 300 Series A and Series B flanges are not compatible.
Thus, while our problem is occurring before the ASME was a single standard does not eliminate the problem. Isolated mismatches continue to provide accurate information, lack of awareness of the Series A or B. Only a few engineers that two possible types of large-diameter flanges are available. If you have a large flange diameter, check what you need to make sure that what you get.
Posted at 10:13AM Feb 08, 2010 Read More... by Rebecca in Flange |
Types of Flanges and How to Flange Pedal Works
Flange are used to connect together pipes or to connect a pipe to a choke, tee, valve or other equipment. There are seven main types of flanges and they come in rectangular, square and round shapes to accommodate a variety of needs and projects.
Lap Joint Flange
For pipes that are frequently taken apart for repair or replacement, lap joint flanges are used. These flanges are used with a universal stub-end insert that is easily rotated and makes it easy to line up bolt holes. This type of flange is used for junctures that do not come in contact with anything flowing through the pipes, which increases their durability and renders them reusable. Caution should be taken not to use lap joint flanges for jobs where high temperatures or high pressure conditions are possible.
Slip-on Flange
Slip-on flanges are thinner than most flanges as they are slid over pipe ends, easily aligned with bolt holes, and then permanently welded into place. Unlike lap joint flanges, they are designed to withstand contact with liquids and can withstand low-pressure atmosphere. They are stronger than other flanges, low cost and dependable at preventing leaks.
Threaded Pipe Flange
This popular type of flange not only comes in a wide range of materials and sizes, it can also be attached to pipes without welding, as it is a threaded flange. Extremely useful in connecting small pipes, it is a low cost flange that can be safely used in highly explosive and high pressure areas of projects and machinery.
Weld Neck Flange
The most popular type of high pressure pipe flange is the weld neck flange. The tapered hub design provides an extremely strong connection and these flanges can be repeatedly manipulated and bent without compromising the quality of the material and/or connection. The weld neck flange is highly resistant to extreme high and low temperatures.
Socket Welding Flange
The socket welding flange was created specifically for small piping that must withstand high pressure and/or contact with chemicals. With expert grinding and welding, socket welding flanges allow the unfettered flow of any type of liquid.
Blind Flanges
These flanges are commonly used to seal or blank off the ends of valves and pipes. They are always round and have bolt holes around their perimeter. They are economical.
Reducing Flange
Some piping system designs require constant changes in pipe diameters to accommodate changing conditions. The reducing flange economically connects different types and sizes of flanges, can endure extreme changes in pressure and are easy to attach.
Creating the Effect
To produce the flanging effect, a flanger pedal mixes two identical signals together from your instrument. One of these signals is then delayed in varying amounts. The delayed track is slowed down very slightly (as if one was gently pushing down on a tape reel as playing and then sped up in order to catch up with the other track. This creates a spinning, sweeping effect like the sound of a jet plane passing overhead.
Delay Amounts
Although flanger pedals delay the copied signal, there is no echo heard. This is because the delay times amount only to the range of one to 10 milliseconds. The human ear can only distinguish an echo if the delay is over about 50 milliseconds. Instead, as the low amounts of delay are used and varied within this tiny range, the listener will only detect the pitch modulation from the delayed track as its signal is read slower (creating a slightly lower pitch) and then faster (for a higher pitch).
Controlling the Sound
Most flange pedals allow you to shape your sound by rotating dials that control the amount of delay added to the delayed signal. This is usually labeled as the "depth" control although on some pedals it will read "mix." The depth level determines how pronounced the notches in the flanger effect will sound. Some pedals also have a sweep depth (sometimes called width) dial to control how noticeable the pitch modulation in your flanger effect will be.
Posted at 01:20PM Feb 05, 2010 Read More... by Rebecca in Flange |
Disposer Flange And Sink Strainer
The disposer flange and sink strainer includes a strainer unit, a seat, and a mounting flange. The strainer unit comes with a handle, a strainer member, and a plug member while the plug member has a platform and a surrounding wall depending from the platform on which multiple slope guide is located.
The seat used in the disposer flange and sink strainer includes a limiter located at a lower portion of the seat. It also includes a snapping portion at a top of the seat. The seat also includes a stopping surface protruding from and surrounding a middle portion of the seat, and there is also another snapping portion at the bottom of the seat.
The mounting flange in the disposer flange and sink strainer is available at the top end with a flange portion and at a bottom end with a mounting portion. You can also find some units in which the sink strainer may further include a decorative flange having a flange portion and a snapping portion. These portions are dimensioned and configured to abut on, and be engaged with, the flange portion and top-snapping portion of the seat.
It is really a fact that Louis Vuitton always made creative items by the classical legendary Monogram pattern, no matter what they are Louis Vuitton handbags, or watches. Just like the Tambour Diving Lady Watch with dazzling red color.
Bright and elegant, this lady watch is absolutely your perfect accessory for Summer holiday, What's more, it is right for your wrist whether you're in a suit or party dress even the casual jeans. Now, let's check it carefully.
Replacing the sink strainer from the disposer flange and sink strainer is also very simple. The sink strainer is the fitting secured to the sink bowl. The first thing in order to replace the sink strainer is to remove the old one.
Thanks for the diamonds detail, the watch features a truly glamorous look. As for me, I mostly like the bright red rubber strap since it looks so lively and energetic. What about you? In a word, totally a luxurious sprorty design. Best functionality and fabulously designed for best style - I finally realize that why it could become the enduring fashion brand for so many years. What's your opinion?
However, you must keep in mind that you can also find units in which the strainer is held with a large lock nut. There are another type as well that has three screws. Once you have removed the sink strainer, all you have to do is to install the flange that comes with the disposer, applying plumber's putty under its lip to form a seal with the sink bowl.
Posted at 09:35AM Feb 04, 2010 Read More... by Rebecca in Flange |
Tips For Installing Closet Rods
Closet tubing: what you can expect to find
Profiles and sizes
Closet tubing comes in a variety of shapes, sizes, materials, and colors. The most common shapes, or profiles, are round and oval. Round closet rod is sold in 1-1/16 inch diameter tube and 1-5/16 diameter tube. It can be purchased in steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.
Round closet rod generally carries more weight due to the shape of the tube and usually has a thicker wall. While either size is suitable for a closet, for maximum weight bearing capacity use 1-5/16 diameter rod.
Oval tube isn't truly oval in shape but more of an oblong rounded shape with two flat sides. It normally measures 15 x 30 mm or approximately 1-1/8 x 1-1/4 inches. Oval tube is manufactured in steel or aluminum.
Materials
Metal closet rod is available in Steel, Stainless Steel, and Aluminum. Steel is typically sold with a Polished Chrome finish; this is the most common closet rod material and finish. Its advantages are strength and durability at a lower price. Stainless Steel is typically sold with a satin or brushed finish. It offers the strength and durability of steel with the added advantage of rust and corrosion resistance. Stainless steel is ideal for humid and sea-side applications.
Aluminum is sold in a variety of anodized finishes. Anodizing is a process in which electricity is used to produce a hard and durable surface. Aluminum tubing is much lighter in weight but with a similar load bearing capacity to steel.
Evaluate your needs
Length - The first thing you should consider for your installation is the length of the closet rod. The length should be determined by measuring the wall to wall distance. Dry wall often has very slight waves or undulations in it so that the distance between walls may differ from one spot to another. For this reason it's important that you take your wall to wall measurement at the exact spot where the closet rod will be installed. Usually the closet rod is mounted at least 12 inches from the back wall. Having someone help you measure will make the job much easier and give you better results. If you need a closet rod over 8 feet long some profiles and finishes are available in extended lengths up to 12 feet.
Weight bearing needs - Next, decide what kind of clothing will be stored on your closet rod. While a mix of garments is expected in a normal closet, an Arizona wardrobe will be much different from a Minnesota wardrobe. Cold weather clothing will weigh a lot more and that should be taken into consideration. A closet rod in a coat closet will need to support a lot of heavy items while a closet rod in a nursery closet will not need to support much weight at all. Keep in mind that the longer the closet rod the more likely it is to sag when loaded with clothing. Center supports and shelf/rod brackets will keep the closet rod straight. As a general rule, closet rods under 5 feet don't require center support. For longer spans consider using center supports every 3 or 4 feet.
Finish - After the practical needs of your closet are determined you can concentrate on aesthetics. Profile shape, color, and finish should fit the décor of the closet and surrounding room. With so many choices available you should have no problem finding something to suit your taste.
Mounting Flanges
Mounting flange are the supports that attach to the wall and hold your closet rod up. Each type of rod will have mounting flanges made specifically for it but there are common types of flanges used for all tubing. Open flanges are made with the top portion open like a "U" so the closet rod can be easily lifted out. Closed flanges completely encircle the end of the mounted closet rod and do not allow removal without unscrewing the flange from the wall. 32mm pinned flanges are made to work with 32mm systems or European Closet systems. These are closet systems that have pre-drilled holes spaced at 32 millimeters running up and down the closet side panels. While 32mm flanges can also be screwed in place, this isn't necessary and foregoing screws allows adjustment of the closet rod up or down if you wish. 32mm flanges are available for round and oval tubing in open and closed variations.
Accounting for mounting flange space
Since the mounting flange may have a back-plate, the flange you use will determine the cut length of the rod. For instance, if the wall to wall measurement is 60 inches and you are using two open flanges you'll need to subtract ? inch from the total length of the rod. Each open flange has a 1/8 inch back plate. 1/8 + 1/8 = ? inch of space that will occupy the total length of 60 inches. Some closed flanges have an opening all the way through so that your closet rod will actually touch the wall. In this instance the rod itself could actually be 60 inches long. Be sure to find out what space your mounting flanges will take up and factor that into the total length of the application. Each flange has a cuff, the part that encloses and supports the end of the tube. The cuff will be between ? inch and 1 inch deep. Keeping in mind the cuff depth you may want to cut the closet rod just slightly shorter to give yourself some "wiggle room".
Cutting Closet Tubing
While it is possible to cut closet tubing yourself it's usually worth it to pay a cutting charge if that service is provided by your supplier. If you do decide to cut it yourself use a saw blade made for cutting metal. Be sure to use your saw as directed by the manufacturer to prevent accidents!
Installation
Once you have everything measured and cut you may proceed with installation. This step will be easier with some assistance so get a friend to help. You've already made sure that your tubing is adequate for your closet, now you need to make sure that it's firmly and securely mounted in place. The mounting flanges are far more likely to tear loose from the wall than your closet rod is to bend so it's critical that this step is done correctly! If the closet rod is to be attached to dry-wall be sure that it is located so the screws go through the dry-wall and into a wall stud. Dry-wall alone is not sufficient as a mounting surface. If you're unable to screw into a stud, plan on using a wood mounting board on top of the wall. This should be firmly attached to the wall studs and will provide a suitable point of attachment for your mounting flange. If you do use a mounting board remember to subtract its thickness from your wall to wall measurement when determining your closet rod length. Depending on the type of flange you're using, it may be screwed in place before the rod is set or it may need to be slid onto the rod prior to screwing in place.
Using Your Closet
Once everything is in place you can start filling your closet. While metal tubing has a very durable finish it can scratch if used roughly. It's always a good idea to use quality hangers to protect your clothes and your closet rod. Plastic hangers will ensure that the finished surface remains scratch free. Wood and metal hangers are fine just as long as the hook has a smooth finished end. Wire dry cleaning hangers have sharp ends and should be avoided.
Posted at 09:29AM Feb 03, 2010 Read More... by Rebecca in Flange |
Audio Effects-Noise Gate & Flange
Continuing the audio effects series, again, we all know of audio effects and what they generally are supposed to do. They are used to manipulate audio in ways that are not available with traditional playing and recording techniques. If youre like me, and enjoy dabbling in audio production, youre probably familiar with all the basic effects and maybe some other types.
Noise gate will be one of the topics of discussion today. Noise gate, what the heck is that? If that was your first reaction, youre not alone. Please dont worry; we will be demystifying this subject later on in the article. We will also be discussing flange, which is a more standard and widely used audio effect. So, in todays article we will be discussing both noise gate and flange effects, how they work and why they work the way they do.
Noise Gate
Basically, noise gate is a device or software logic that is used to manage the volume of an audio signal, in recording studios and in sound reinforcement. They are also used by musicians, in a portable form, to control amplification noise. At its most simple form it controls noise by only allowing sound to pass through it at a certain set threshold. Think of it as a literal gate; when the gate is open sound can pass, when the gate is closed no signal is allowed through.
More robust noise gate units have extra controls, I.E. attack, sustain, decay, release. This is so that you can further control the gating of your audio. Say youd like to have the gate applied in a hard fashion, you would set a short attack and a short release, so on and so forth. Noise gates are often used to isolate background noise from live recordings in order to eliminate them from the final copy.
Flange
Flange is related to the phasing effect produced by a, well, phaser effects unit. It is produced when two identical signals are mixed together, with one of the signals time-delayed by a small and gradually changing amount. The amount is usually equal to or less than 20 milliseconds. Peaks and notches are produced in the combined frequency spectrum, related in a linear harmonic series.
Part of the output signal is fed back in and resonates, intensifying the peaks and notches. This effect was originally generated with 3 three headed tape machines. Two of the tape machines would play the signal, obviously somewhat out of synch, and the third tape machine would record the output. The modern version of the effect is created using DSP (digital signal processing) technology.
This is the second part in my continuing series on audio effects. Today we discussed noise gate and flange, well be moving on some more advanced effects later on. I hope that this helped you all understand the basic functionality of these two effects, ultimately making your next foray into audio editing a bit less intimidating.
Posted at 09:35AM Feb 02, 2010 Read More... by Rebecca in Flange |
Air Flange Tool and Auto Body Repair
Completing any job in the workshop is always easier if you have the right tool available. One area in which this is particularly true is body work on autos. If you want to be able to provide the best possible finish for a customer when repairing their vehicle, then you will need a full range of auto body work tools including an air flange tool.
One area where many workshops can really struggle is in providing large scale panel repair on a vehicle. In order to return an area of the body shell to its original condition, it is often necessary to replace an entire area of metal, and unless you have the tools to add metal to a frame work effectively, this will not be possible, and you will be forced to replace the entire component, such as a door or fender. This will result in a much higher cost to the client. With an air flange tool, you can use it to simply re-skin a door with fresh metal, negating the need to replace the entire door, or engage in a lengthy panel beating session.
This is designed to use the compressed air supply in your workshop to deliver a compressive force to a piece of metal in order to fasten it into place without the need for welding. By using the air flange tool you crimp one piece of metal onto another, and thanks to the enormous force that the tool can deliver, it creates a very tight fit that will last.
An all-new panel will not suffer from any of the defects that you may get in one that has been beaten back into the correct shape, and will also sit better on the car than a wholly replaced door. If the panel is cut properly to shape in advance, then actually using the air flange tool can be a great deal quicker than actually hanging a door on the car and installing all the electrics.
Of course, there are many other uses for one than reattaching panels, and the tool can be used to punch neat and clean holes in sheet metal for bolting into place, or for allowing wiring looms to pass easily into the correct place. The breadth of different jobs that you can use the air flange tool for will soon become apparent as it finds its way into your hand whenever you need a reliable tool.
There are a number of different ones on the market, and all of them are compatible with the standard compressed air supply that you find in most modern workshops, meaning that it can be integrated seamlessly into your current work shop environment, and be used immediately.
Prices for an air flange tool start from under $65 for the pistol grip style Astro Pneumatic AST600PT model, which is a robust and reliable tool that is flexible enough to carry out most day to day jobs. While it will not handle the heaviest duty sheet metal, it, forms a smooth crimped edge that is set up ready for welding. Thanks to its relatively light weight at just two and a quarter pounds, you will be able to use if over extended periods of time without having to worry about getting tired.
Of course, by investing a little more in your tool, you can get something a little more powerful like the Mountain MTN 7378, which retails at less than $90 at Red Hill Supply. This tool can handle punching holes through metal up to 5/16" thick, and will crimp metal up to 5/32" inch, making it ideal for body work jobs.
At the top end of the market, there are a number of specialist tools that use this technique to reliably and quickly re-skin doors. By spending around $280 on an Astro Pneumatic ASTDS1000 Pneumatic Door Skinner, you can complete the task of adding a new skin to a door to a factory standard very quickly.
If you are serious about getting the best finish for your body work repairs, then an air flange tool is the right item for you. It will cut the amount of time taken using a manually powered tool in half, and give you a much superior finish thanks to the high pressure it can apply to a task.
Posted at 10:49AM Feb 01, 2010 Read More... by Rebecca in Flange |
How to Make a Flange Pillow
Flange are decorative borders that surround the edges of a pillow. Flange pillows can be small or large, square or rectangular, or even round. You can find pillow forms in a variety of shapes and sizes at many fabric stores or buy inexpensive pillows at discount stores or clearance sales. You can cover the pillow with home decor fabric, plain cotton or a whimsical print.
Cut one piece of fabric for the front of the pillow cover that is 7 inches larger than the height and width of the pillow. For example, if you have a 12-inch square pillow, cut a 19-inch square piece of fabric.
Cut a second piece of fabric 2 inches taller than the first (for example, 19 inches wide by 21 inches tall). Cut this piece of fabric in half across the width (in this example, the two pieces would be 19 inches by 10 1/2 inches). These pieces will cover the back of the pillow.
Fold one long edge of each piece of back fabric over 1/4 inch toward the wrong side of the fabric and press the fold flat. Fold over the edge again 1/4 inch and press it flat. Stitch along each fold with matching thread.
Place the two back pieces and the front piece right sides together and line up along the edges. The hemmed edges of the back pieces should overlap.
Pin the pieces of fabric together, then stitch together along all four sides using 1/4-inch seam allowance. Turn the pillowcase right side out.
Insert a row of pins 3 inches from the edge of each side of the pillowcase, forming a border, to make the flange.
Stitch along each line of pins, removing the pins as you sew. If you wish, you can sew a piece of ribbon or trim on top of the stitching for an extra decorative touch. Make sure to use thread that matches the ribbon or trim.
Insert the pillow or pillow form through the opening in the back of the pillowcase.
Posted at 11:17AM Jan 29, 2010 Read More... by Rebecca in Flange |
Bend a Sheet Metal Flange
Standard sheet metal flange are used for mounting accessories to duct work. Sheet metal flanges can be bent to any size, but there are two common types of flanges. The flange is designated by the direction that the flange bends on the duct.
A "flange in" is, as the name describes, turned to the inside of the duct work and a "flange out" bends to the outside of the duct work. Both flange types bend the same way; the difference is how you lay out the bends for the flange versus the layout marks for the duct work.
Set the scribe to 1 inch. Run the scribe along the edge of the ductwork that is going to receive the flange. Measure across the sheet metal with the tape measure and use the permanent marker to lay out the locations of any bends that will need to be made across the duct's sheet metal flange.
Cut a straight line with the aviation snips at each bend location that you marked in Step 1. The cut needs to extend the full 1 inch width of the 1 inch flange. Notch the corners of the flange that will require the seams for the connections on the side of the duct work.
Run the duct work through all roll-former equipment needed to place seam edges on the piece of duct work before you bend the sheet metal flange.
Place the edged sheet metal into the sheet metal hand brake. Slide the end that does not require the flange into the hand brake first, with the 1 inch scribe mark facing up. Align the 1 inch scribe mark with the top clamping leaf of the hand brake. Pull down the clamping handle on one side of the hand brake. Switch to the other side of the hand brake. Line-up the scribe mark with that side of the clamping leaf and pull the clamping handle on that side to completely secure the sheet metal in the hand brake.
Grasp the low handles of the hand brake's bending leaf. Pull the bending leaf up as you watch the sheet metal. When the flange is close to 90 degrees, lower the bending leaf and unclamp the sheet metal by raising the clamping leaf handles of the hand brake.
Pull the sheet metal forward of the clamping leaf 4 inches. Check the sheet metal flange for 90 degrees with the combination square. If the base and blade of the combination square both rest completely on the sheet metal and the flange, the bend is 90 degrees. If the bend is not 90 degrees, push the sheet metal back into place, clamp the metal back into the hand brake, and lift the bending leaf higher to tighten the bend of the sheet metal flange.
Check the sheet metal flange for square using the method described in Step 6. If the flange is still short of 90 degrees, repeat the process of clamping and bending to tighten the flange. Use the mallet to open up the flange if you go over 90 degrees. Hit the sheet metal flange lightly with the mallet. Hit the entire length of the flange with the mallet. The closer together you hit the flange, the more even the flange will look.
Bend the width and heights of the duct work. Assemble the ductwork with the sheet metal flange placed at the end of the length of duct.
Posted at 02:15PM Jan 28, 2010 Read More... by Rebecca in Flange |
The Cam With the Flange Goes in the Groove With the Tube
Did you ever watch MASH? Remember that episode where Hawkeye was trying to fix that whatever it was and Nurse Kelleye told him that the cam with the flange goes in the groove with the tube? You remember that, right? Well, you're probably thinking, "What the devil does that have to do with article writing?" Well, it has everything to do with it. So if you'll hang in there, I'm going to explain. I think you will find this interesting reading.
In the MASH episode that I'm talking about, a particular procedure had to be done in order to get that, whatever it was, to work. And the funny thing was, even after Kelleye told Hawkeye EXACTLY what to do, he didn't know how to do it. He didn't know his cam from his flange OR his groove from his tube, let alone know where to put them all. It was a total mess and ultimately, Kelleye had to do it for him. Thus it is with some article writers. They don't know their cam from their flange OR their groove from their tube.
More specifically, they don't know a good title from a bad one, a good intro from a bad one, a good summary from a bad one and heaven knows they wouldn't know well written content if it bit them on the backside. Talk about cams and flanges and grooves and tubes being all over the place with nothing fitting correctly. No wonder so many article writers can't find freelancing jobs. People take one look at their examples and run for the hills. You'd think we were under attack from Martians.
Okay, so how do you get to the point where you know your cams, flanges and whatever? Well, there are two ways to go about it that I know. The one way is to get a formal education. Go learn how to write articles. I'm sure somewhere on this planet you can find an article writing course. Another way is to study the masters. If you go to the top article directories online and look at the articles that are most viewed, you will probably learn a heck of a lot from reading the works of these authors. And it won't cost you a dime.
Bottom line is this. Unless you understand your craft, you're not going to be a successful article writer. Oh I know, some people say it's just pure talent. It isn't. There are structures to writing that you need to learn. They don't come from a hole in the wall. They come from learning and doing. So make sure you know your cam from your flange and your groove from your tube.
Posted at 03:07PM Jan 26, 2010 Read More... by Rebecca in Flange |
